Green Beans with Horseradish-Mustard Vinaigrette

This is the first of a series of posts about great sides for Thanksgiving and year-round -- stay tuned for more as we approach the big day!

For my money, this is the quintessential side. Flavor-wise, it's totally in keeping with Thanksgiving tastes. The horseradish helps cut all that sweet, fatty Tday food, and the mustard reinforces for a one-two punch of spice. And at a meal where salad is the wallflower, green beans are more formidable company for that big turkey and the boat full of gravy occupying everyone's attention.

If that's not enough to lure you, other benefits include its ease and speed of preparation (it takes 10 minutes flat) and its willingness to hang out for a few days before serving. Really, what more can you ask for?

I make these green beans year round, but they're especially great on Tday. Go forth and eat.

Green Beans with Horseradish-Mustard Vinaigrette serves 4 as a side

1 pound green beans 1 tablespoon spicy whole-grain mustard 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish (I make mine by blending horseradish root with vinegar) 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1/3 cup olive oil salt and pepper 1/2 cup sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 350º. Spread almonds in a single layer and toast until golden, about 10 minutes. Watch them carefully so they don't burn.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice cubes and water. Working in batches, cook beans in boiling water just until cooked but still crisp, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer cooked beans to bowl of ice water to "shock" them and stop them from cooking further. Continue cooking and shocking process with remaining batches of beans. Transfer beans to separate bowl and chill. You'll be serving the beans at room temperature, so chill only enough that they're no longer hot.

Meanwhile, prepare vinaigrette. Mix horseradish, mustard, red wine vinegar, and lemon juice. Add oil in steady stream while whisking, until all oil has been added and vinaigrette is emulsified.

Transfer green beans to a serving platter. Drizzle vinaigrette over beans, top with toasted almonds, and serve at room temperature.

Spiced Chicken and Rice

I know the big T is just under two weeks away, and I get why everyone's talking cranberry relish and turkey like it's their job. But we've all gotta eat between now and then, and this is one damn good way to get nourished.

Last week, we had the first cold weekend in DC. Now my immune system is starting to feel like the Little Engine that Could. I'm teetering on the brink of a mighty cold, and no amount of OJ or echinacea or (ick) Emergen-C has helped. Not to mention, somehow I didn't get the email about the free flu shot clinic at work, so I'm totally exposed to the best of winter's illness smorgasbord. Surely, I'm not alone in my unfortunate predicament. (Right?)

I'm starting to think fighting the cold is overrated. Let's face it: I'm going to get sick sooner or later. And when I do, I'm going to to curl up on the couch, wrap myself in the sweatshirt-blanket, and tuck into a deep bowl of something warm and comforting. My will to not get sick may also be diminished by the fact that, lastweekend, I made the best chicken and rice I've ever had. If I've gotta go down, I'd like to do so over a bowl of this stuff.

I don't even like chicken all that much. But for weeks, I've been craving a big pot of rice, perfumed with chicken stock and warm fall spices, perfectly cooked and piping hot. That's just what this is: a filling, soothing one-pot meal that's easy to make and highly craveable. The aromas alone -- cumin, cinnamon, smoked paprika, and homemade chicken stock -- had me hooked; but when I caught people reaching their fingers into the bottom of the pot to scrape up one last morsel, I knew the dish was a keeper.

To my taste, the spices here strike the perfect balance of warmth and spice without being overly sweet or strong. I made extra of the spice blend, and now I'm glad I did. However, if you've got your heart set on different flavors -- curry, for example -- please don't hesitate. There's as much method in this recipe as there is proportion, and you could easily make this dish with whatever spice blends you've got in the pantry. If your spice blends are unsalted, figure 1 teaspoon salt for every teaspoon of spices. Alternatively, salt your bird first, as you normally would, then rub with spices.

You don't hear me gushing over chicken so often, but this one's worth the oohs and ahhs. It's the stuff of a cold fall day, the sort of food you want to tuck into with good friends and plenty of red wine. Needless to say, I'll be making this again. I hope you will, too.

Spiced Chicken and Rice

A note to those hoping to make this in a slow cooker or a low, slow oven: it's possible, but it requires some adjustments. First, don't use white rice. You can't really cook white rice in a slow cooker, because it turns to mush. Substitute either brown rice, some other grain entirely (barley, spelt, or wheatberries would all be great), or use converted rice, which is brown rice that's parboiled and made to taste more like white rice. It tolerates low, slow heat better than white rice. Second, hold back on about 1/2 a cup of the liquid. You may end up needing it, but I needed 1/2 a cup less when making it in a low oven, and I wouldn't want the whole dish to end up waterlogged. Otherwise, everything else is the same.

For the spice rub: 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 4 green cardamom pods 7 black peppercorns 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 teaspoon salt

For the chicken: 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 broiler chickens, cut into pieces (I separate drumstick from thigh and halve breasts) 1 onion, halved and sliced 1/2 cup tomato puree 2-3 cups chicken stock 2 cups water 2 cups rice

Blend spices, sugar, and salt in spice blender until finely ground. Set aside.

Rinse chicken pieces and pat dry. Sprinkle half the spice mix onto chicken and rub into skin.

Preheat oven to 300º.

Heat a dutch oven (mine is 5-1/2 quarts) or a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add olive oil. When oil shimmers, add half the chicken, skin-side down, and cook about 3 minutes, until well-browned. Turn chicken pieces and cook on the other side for 3-4 minutes more, until browned. Chicken pieces should remain pink inside; they'll cook fully later on. When chicken pieces are sufficiently brown, transfer to a plate and continue cooking the second batch of chicken pieces in a similar manner. Fond (the flavorful brown bits) will start sticking to the bottom of the pot; this is good.

When all chicken has been cooked and transfered from pan to plate, add onions to pan with half the remaining spices. Cook until onions develop color and spices are fragrant, about 4 minutes.

Add tomato puree and 1 cup stock to pan, and use a wooden spoon to scrape up fond from bottom of pan. Liquid should immediately start to boil. After about 5 minutes, liquid will have reduced somewhat and should be brown from the fond. Add chicken pieces back into pan. Liquid should come about halfway up pieces of chicken. If liquid level is lower, add extra 1/2 to 1 cup stock, for a total of 1-1/2 to 2 cups. Cover pot and place in oven. Cook at 300º for about 1 hour, until chicken is soft but fully cooked. At this point, you should have some remaining liquid in the pan.

Remove pot from oven. Raise oven heat to 400º and bring a few cups of water to a boil. When water boils, add 1 additional cup stock and 2 cups boiling water to chicken pot. Add rice, and stir to incorporate raw rice into chicken pieces. As soon as oven reaches 400º, replace cover on pot and return to oven for 17 minutes, until rice is fully cooked. Remove dish from oven and leave covered, so rice will steam and fluff as much as possible. Serve hot.

Thanksgiving, Chez Nous

That's right: we're finally hosting Thanksgiving dinner. I'll be making dinner for 8 or 9, from soup to nuts. We're talking appetizers, soup, Turkey, all the sides, sauces, and fix-ins, and of course, pies galore. According to her family tradition, D gets a whole pumpkin pie designated for her. Not one to flout these family customs, I'll be following suit. One pumpkin pie for D, a couple more for the rest of us. Oh, and pecan, cranberry apple, and maybe something else, too. We'll see.

For now, here's my menu. It's pretty traditional, with some nips and tucks to suit our style (low-key) and our needs (no dairy). Some of you out there must be Tday veterans; I'd love your feedback -- what am I missing?

I'll add recipes and tips as I start the actual cooking, which probably won't happen until this weekend. Stay tuned, and please, pretty please: if you're also making Thanksgiving, share your menus in the comments!

Thanksgiving Menu

note: some of these recipes are NDP standbys. Several come from the wonderful community of cooks on Food52, and I imagine these are just a few of the Tday-friendly recipes on that site. I'll add links as I settle on recipes for the other dishes, so again -- stay tuned. Aperitif: Sour Cherry Liqueur Oven-Roasted Olives Pickles, Pickles, Pickles Tomato Soup with chive coulis OR curried carrot soup (haven't decided yet) Turkey with citrus and thyme, probably adapting this recipe Stuffed squash with quinoa, pears, and cranberries Green beans with horseradish-mustard vinaigrette Brussels sprouts Mrs. Wheelbarrow's challah stuffing (vegetarian) Forgotten sweet potatoes with maple syrup, adapting this recipe Cranberry sauce or chutney (if you have a great recipe, send it over!) Onion confit Butternut butter Gingerbread Pumpkin Pie Pecan Tartlets Apple Cranberry Pie, or adapted from this recipe

Rigatoni with Radish Pesto and Oven-Roasted Tomatoes

A couple weeks ago, my friend Jeremy told you using the last of the summer bumper crop to make oven-roasted tomatoes. Like the diligent readers you are, several of you went and made your own oven-roasted tomatoes. But then you emailed me later that week asking what to do with the oven-roasted tomatoes you had made. Recognizing that my first-impulse answer, "what can't you do with them?!" wasn't exactly so helpful, I started a list of ways to use these plump little suckers. Toss a couple on pizza; pile them in a heap on baked feta and serve with pita chips; add to roasted broccoli and drizzle vinaigrette over the whole mess; and so forth.

One suggestion I neglected to share, of course, was to toss them with pasta. Ironically, that's my most frequent use for them. I toss them with spaghetti and finish with parmesan, I add them to baked dishes like ziti and lasagna, and -- as you'll see -- I mix them with some rigatoni and coat it all with pesto. In this combination, the tomatoes brighten the pesto-coated pasta, punctuating with sweetness and acid. Once you've got the tomatoes, the dish takes about 25 minutes to make, though the results would suggest otherwise. An added plus: this doubles as weekday lunch. What more could you ask for?

The pesto is delicious -- though "radish pesto" is perhaps a misnomer, since the pesto is made not with the radishes themselves, but with their leaves. After years of buying radishes from the farmers' market and watching the forlorn greens wilt away in the fridge, I discovered this wonderful recipe on Food52 and haven't turned back since. The recipe is by "Oui, Chef," a regular contributor whose recipes are some of the most well-conceived on the site. I've always been one to add acid (lemon juice, lemon zest) to my pesto, and when Oui, Chef did so as well, I knew I had to read on. His pesto recipe combines traditional ingredients (basil, garlic, olive oil) with less traditional ones (feta, marcona almonds, chives -- stay tuned for more about them later this week), and the result is divine.

It's not only the tomatoes that have multiple uses, by the way. This pesto is exceedingly versatile. Shmear some on slices of bread or pieces of baguette, top with feta or ricotta, maybe some chopped tomatoes, and lettuce, and you have a lovely vegetarian lunch. Drop dollops onto pizza dough with a couple thin slices of radish, and some pecorino, and you have yourself a unique and delicious pizza. Add some to a vinaigrette and use it to dress beans (from a can is totally fine) for a nice variation on bean salad. You get the drift. One spread, many uses. Just the way I like it.

Rigatoni with Radish Pesto and Oven-Roasted Tomatoes

1 pound rigatoni or other large tube pasta 1/2 cup oven-dried tomatoes 3/4 cup radish and basil pesto (recipe by Oui,Chef on Food52 -- printed below with my adjustments) Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and transfer to large bowl. Mix in pesto and tomatoes, and grate 1/4 cup cheese over top. Mix to incorporate; serve warm or at room temperature.

Radish and Basil Pesto via Food52

1 cup packed fresh radish greens, well washed and dried 1 cup packed basil leaves, well washed and dried 2 cloves garlic 1/4 cup marcona almonds 1/4 cup olive oil Juice of 1/2 lemon 1/4 cup feta cheese, cut or broken into chunks 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 3 radishes, finely minced 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh chives Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

Place garlic and almonds in the bowl of a small food processor with a pinch of salt and a few grindings of pepper, and pulse until finely minced.

Add the radish and basil leaves, and process while pouring the olive oil through the feed tube, stopping as needed to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Continue until oil has been incorporated and pesto is smooth.

Add feta and radishes, and pulse just until broken up into small bits -- this is where the pesto gets chunky. If you prefer a completely smooth pesto, process for longer at this stage.

Pour pesto into a medium sized bowl, and mix in the lemon juice, grated parmesan, and chives.

Test for seasoning, adding more salt, pepper or lemon juice as desired. Spoon into an air-tight container just big enough to hold all the pesto, pour a thin layer of olive oil to coat the top, and store in fridge. Pesto will keep for up to 1 week.